Sicily was among the first regions to enjoy Italian pasta. Even before the tomato arrived in the island, the ingredients for pasta were not lacking. Always classic "tuna product" (with eg. To lattume, semen and mosciame pink tuna, the tuna fillet salted and dried), the roe of tuna, was one of these ingredients, and is still , known to be appreciated and sought after. The origin of the product seems to be Phoenician (and some even date back to the Egyptians, probably first to keep the fish eggs, which were not of tuna), but the term derives from butārikh, which means "salted fish eggs." Also known as the "Caviar of the Mediterranean", the mullet is no more than the bag of tuna female ovary, which is extracted, without breaking it, immediately after fishing. Is then washed to remove impurities and subjected to salting (covered with sea salt, taking care to turn it every day and periodically replace the salt). The next steps include the compression and drying, waxing and vacuum packing. The mustache of eggs of a tuna can reach over 100 pounds per kilo of weight. When for consumption, the mullet has, in general, a firm and compact texture, color varies from light pink to brown-mahogany, with a strong smell and taste of the sea, very intense and persistent. The tuna fishermen (fishermen of the traps), this connoisseurs of fine food, they usually eat it with a slice of tomato, with its freshness that it mitigates the strong flavor. Traditionally constituted, in effect, the meal of the fishermen who spent the day at sea, which guaranteed support through its calories and protein. Some of the eggs of tuna, like other fish entrails, entitled, for tradition, as of right to tuna fishermen (tuna is always called the "pig sea, "because it is used every part). The roe of tuna is consumed in various ways today. We find as an appetizer, made with thin slices seasoned with olive oil and chopped and served with lemon or orange peel on toasted bread. Zest, flavor pasta dishes, side dishes and salads. It goes well with both fast food (raw with olive oil and parsley as a condiment for pasta or on slices of boiled potatoes) and the haute cuisine (it goes well with the walnut sauce or pesto with pistachio). We can find it easily even on pizza. Proper preservation of the rule is to sprinkle the cut side with oil and place it in the fridge wrapped paper bread. On this product, considered an aphrodisiac by some, there is a legend on its quality. He is speaking of "mullet run" and "mullet back." The first is attributed to those eggs collected from tuna that come to lay their eggs (of course), while the second refers to that taken by tuna that have already deposited eggs (return). The latter is regarded as less valuable because it is less bulky and not very compact. Gold dust that smells of sea, amber nectar of Neptune tribute to the gourmet, or the first taste you love or hate, there is no middle ground. But no one is ever indifferent. A little 'as with caviar (Considered a reliable high-quality food, but not necessarily liked by all). Food of poor origins, never fail on the tables laden island for special occasions. The roe of tuna is the most valuable species of Thunnus thynnus, bluefin tuna (also known as Bluefin, or "blue fin"), whose price is around 200 Euro / kg and is found mainly in Favignana and in some canning company in south-western Sicily (Trapani, Mazara del Vallo, Sciacca). The roe more widespread, especially in supermarkets, is derived from the species Neothunnus albacares (the infamous "Yellow Fin", of which the cans are full of varied style that we find the shelves of supermarket chains), whose stock is around 90 Euro / kg. Over 80% of the Mediterranean bluefin tuna ends today across the world, namely in Japan, and this for over 15 years (there are only removed the eggs for the production of roe, which is called in Japan and Karasuma which is not particularly popular as us). Conversely, our supply of tuna canning industry is caught in the Pacific. Monstrous absurdity of the modern economy. In a time not so distant then, the fishing for this species of tuna typically identified with the spectacular ritual "slaughter" (from the English matar, to kill) the popular and historic symbol struggle between man and nature, which always took place in spring. The victory of the instinct of survival instinct of reproduction del'uomo tuna. Attending a "massacre" is a truly unique. The colors and sounds of the massacre are powerful ancestral unforgettable. The propitiatory songs (the cialome) of the Arab memory, give rhythm to the action of tuna fishermen who, guided by the "Rais" absolute and undisputed leader of the unique fishing trip, all the time play the role of the leading actors of that ' fascinating spectacle of death, made up of screaming, sweat, blood and sea, in the places of the traps, has always been survival for the fishermen and their families. This is testified by the many traps that are remaining and the true monuments of industrial architecture (there were 800 122 in Italy, concentrated mostly in Sicily, which had well 79, and in Sardinia, 21) between which highlight, in particular, those of Bonagia and Favignana. In the tuna fishery is Bonagia since 2004 that no longer the killings. Today is a charming hotel restaurant with its museum of the trap and place of purchase. In the island of Favignana, where the establishment of Florio is closed for the past 35 years, the latest killings dating back to last year, but yielded very little, about 150 specimens of small size (Max 50 kg), and had, in recent years, almost reduced to a freak show for tourists rather than a fishery itself. The Ancient of Favignana tuna Florio was restored about a year ago, with the intention of making a structure to serve the tourist industry on the island. But the slaughter of Favignana, however, is and remains a bastion of defense characteristic of a specific maritime identity. Unfortunately, the high installation costs and competition from international fishing vessels have brought to its knees. The large fishing vessels are now able to drop traps flying everywhere, no need to wait to reach the tuna, in their "rush" the hot spots of the Mediterranean to spawn. Luckily, it seems that today the fishermen of Favignana have organized a cooperative, managed to retrieve the fishing rights from 1937 and sold that did not belong more to the "tuna fishermen." This bodes well for the future of this unique tradition and for the important economy related to it. Already in its "Report on the Sicilian coast," dated 1968, Leonardo Sciascia denounced the need "to work ... because the value of the traps should be restored, enhanced and made accessible on a universal level of the traps ... tell us the occasion to speak of sea, coast and countryside, rest assured that these issues are the future of Sicily and that its future must pass on the memory and the beauty of its wild places .... " Florio tuna after the inauguration of its restructuring, in September last year, the Regional Minister of Culture and Identity in Sicily, Gaetano Armao so he began: "... From here begins the path that will bring Sicily to impose its artistic heritage, landscape, natural, in the global marketplace of the new millennium. " Although after more than 40 years, the laudable intentions of the great Sicilian writer seem to have, at least in part, made ...
Spaghetti with mullet are as much a first course tasty, easy and quick to prepare, and require special attention and the highest quality ingredients. A plate exuberant, and "conflict" as it is, after all, our land. Simple and complex at the same time, can not marry any kind of pasta ... Must be of format "long" and having a core consisting of dried long and of course, say it is an ideal spaghetti (although the original recipe calls for bucatini) drawn to the bronze, high quality and able to hold the sauce . For many people the pasta with the mullet remains a legend, great memories associated with their brief stay in Sicily. In any case, is a real treat, must try at least once in their lives ... In the market the roe is in the form of whiskers to be grated, in various sizes (including about 100 g), already reduced to powder in glass jars (perhaps more comfortable to use, but not even comparable in terms of taste). The roe can peel, break it with his hands in little chunks and put it to stand overnight in refrigerator in a cup of black oil. The next day, you should be softened just enough to easily work to prepare the dressing. The advantage is not to break the eggs, keeping all the flavor. Someone adds a dash of lemon, and also the lemon zest, to balance the exuberant character. Or two sun-dried tomatoes, softened and chopped coarsely. One warning: be careful with the oil, do not go overboard, otherwise the dough will be too big and heavy. First course is ideal for a romantic dinner (some people think it has dell'afrodisiaco), however, the mullet can not be minimized and, given its history, certainly deserves absolute respect. I say this because I often read recipes in which it appears sautéed on the stove as if it were any seasonings. And it depresses me. Whatever the recipe, because the pasta with the mullet is a real feast for the senses, and not a dish that vaguely aware "of the sea" the rules are simple and inflexible, are two: 1) the roe must be fresh and whole. So let go of the containers of grated stuff. 2) the roe, absolutely, should not be cooked. Cooking the ruined beyond repair. So if you care for your enjoyment, keep away from fire. The only exception is a brief and heated in a water bath of light dressing, as provided for in the recipe Sicilian slang published here. Each also has its own recipe, and all are good if they follow these basic rules. At the limit, the spaghetti may be served with a sauté of garlic and parsley which has been adding little roe, roe, and then completed the remainder.
If you want a more delicate taste a slice cut garlic and pass only on the walls dell'insalatiera you will use to serve. Someone adds to prepare a chili pepper cut lengthwise, then remove garlic together. Other variations of this recipe flavoring the oil with the onion rather than garlic or adding pepper and chopped pistachios. Some people add more than anise basil to the sauce for added freshness and balance the flavor of the dish. I have seen versions where the mullet was added a pesto with pine nuts and a bit 'of bread toasted in the oil. For lovers of tomato-based sauces, I found an interesting version, is Fry in extra virgin olive oil in half a carrot, celery, onion and a clove of garlic. Then added the chopped tomatoes, basil abundant, two tablespoons water, salt and pepper. After about 15 min. cooking capers are added, and continue cooking for another 5 minutes. Spaghetti al dente, the sauce is seasoned with well prepared and completed with a sprinkling of pepper and roe. And I could go on ad libitum. I propose that, in my humble opinion, is the most correct, and lets you enjoy the organoleptic characteristics of the ingredients in the game.
Spaghetti with mullet roe
Ingredients: 400 g spaghetti drawn "to bronze, 100 g of tuna roe, 50 g of grated cheese, 2 or 3 cloves of garlic, a sprig of parsley, some basil leaves, extra virgin olive oil.
grate and place the roe in a bowl along with garlic cloves, peeled and chopped parsley, cleaned, washed, dried and finely chopped, and a few basil leaves. Add a few tablespoons of olive oil, in amounts necessary to tie the seasoning, then work it all with a fork until the sauce is fairly homogeneous. Move the bowl so that you also anoint the inside walls. In this way the flavors of garlic and olive oil roe spread, creating an amazing harmony of Mediterranean flavors. To facilitate this operation and to obtain an emulsion that will give the pasta a creamy consistency, it is useful to add some 'water from the pasta, working the mixture with a fork.
Bring plenty of water to a boil in a pot, add salt very little or, better yet, do not add salt at all (the roe already has a strong flavor, like the cheese), then plunge the spaghetti and cook al dente. When the pasta is cooked, drain and mix with sauce. The grated cheese complete the dish, before serving, let stand in covered pan for a few minutes. Once served, do not skimp on a further, good sprinkling of roe ... The great flavor and taste-olfactory persistence of the plate, means, for contrast, pairing wines with just as soft and taste-olfactory persistence. Zibibbo can fit a persistent dry or a Vernaccia grapes. For lovers of reds, opt for an island like a good red igt Salina. For the more daring, a semi-dry Marsala. A demonstration of the great flavor of the dish and then the resulting pulse libare with indulgence, an old Sicilian saying, not surprisingly, states are vuliti Vivir gustusu, and carduni spinusu tunnu of ovu ...
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