There was a time when wine was made by farmers. Better: the tenants. Ah, the wine of the winemaker! A year was another good and a bit 'less. But the winemaker did not made it a big problem. It was a matter "of the trade". Craft Art. He had to just accept it. Making wine, not dependent only the "technical". Nature was, that even in the basement, after all, dictated by law. That 's what happens in the vineyards still hidden magic in a few corners of the world, like Georgia or Burgundy. Farmers, growers of old, a bit 'technical and a little' artists, with their "being" and their "do" could certainly be transferred to their work, however crude, however imperfect, that poem, the soul that the clear and perfect modern wine, produced by techno-winemakers of today, difficult to find. This is because, in the words of the Languedoc vintner Aimé Guibert, the film Mondovino, "it takes a poet to make a good wine." For each winemaker old fashioned, your wine is like a child, and children "know 'piezz'e core" as they say in Naples. Without wishing to detract from the professionalism of the winemakers modern safe, I think frankly very difficult for a modern winemaker, of those who work for 10, 20 or more wineries at the same time, can transfer the "heart" of the many wines produced in this way, and I wonder if you would rather his work (which is often carried out by its other employees) does not constitute rather a sort of "cut and paste" a well-defined operational technique applied in different spatial contexts. I know that many blacklist, accusing me of "attack unfair "to the winemakers. But they were utterly wrong. I have met many winemakers in my life. Early in my career as a passionate wine connoisseur I also attended a few. It 'friendly people, prepared, sometimes even humble (not many, actually). No. Let me be clear. I do not have it with wine makers in general. It is certain that in the last 20 years, their contribution, which has always been important, has now changed. Now winemakers have become "decisive." It 's the point. What was once an important technical support (eye, I said "technical") has now become the mind and the heart of the system. The heart? I said my heart? Even winemakers have a heart? But to finish this! That the heart can have a guy who designs and makes wine for 10, 20 50, 100 wineries at the same time and in 5 continents, and is so busy that if you want to reach the taste makes it forces you to meet him halfway, in a motorway lay-by to stop, and hastily try to view it coldly your wine and then spit on the asphalt ... This is a bleak picture (the residue of a true story from an acquaintance of a well-known Italian wine expert steering wheel), expressive stainless steels of the sadness with which the cast of "flying winemakers" has permeated the world of wine today. And if anyone tries to tell me that is not so maybe I oppose the fact that today all the harvests, and thus the wines, thanks to technological winemakers are good. It would be a bell'eufemismo. I'd say all the same. Thanks to the barrel, the microfiltration, micro-oxygenation, etc.. Etc.. And you call this "progress"? Since I spent the first seven years of my life in Naples, I can afford to call on the Great Prince De Curtis: "But let me pleasure ..."
Caramel Corona
Sommelier AIS
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