FLORIO
Grapes: Grillo
Price range: 10 to 20 €
fermentation and maturation: Slavonian oak
Marsala? It 's a bluff! With this heavy and unexpected epithet began the hard and provocative polemic raised in recent months by prof. Attilio Scienza, president of the Bachelor of Viticulture and Enology, University of Milan. The distinguished professor, known for his frankness and honesty, has not hesitated to bring up one of the oldest wine chapters (his birth, as stated by the Consortium website, can be dated to 1773 by the Englishman John Woodhouse ) and most prestigious in Italy: Marsala DOC, of \u200b\u200bcourse (which will become DOP, when the Legislative Decree No 61 of 4.8.2010, receptive to European legislation, will be put into implementation). Speaking of "wine trick", prof. Science has, in no uncertain terms, clearly stated that the Marsala is produced today has nothing to do with what was being produced until a few years ago. In practice, all would be made with sweet marsala caramel to give that feeling of old and burned, and would be added mistelles (must be made not less than 12 ° infermentescibili addition of alcohol to wine or spirits) to make it soft. It's like a vermouth. Marsala, in short, is now a purely industrial product whose base wine is no longer tied to the territory. For the distinguished teacher, in short, urgent need to return to winemaking, the vineyard, as it did before, in two words: the source. Marsala, in fact, was born once as a wine originating from grapes ripe with high sugar content (also 35 degrees Babo!). Unfortunately today the vineyard is not made saccarometriche give more of this type. Fortification and the various systems of tanning, provided by the specification of Doc, have finally filled the missing quality of yields in the vineyard. It 'sad to say, and I never tire of saying it, but again, we face the nth, infamous example of agricultural products "honor", distorted in the name of an absurd, rampant globalization. The same way as happened in other agricultural products processing, have ruined a tradition to make quantity, and sold millions of hl throughout the world. Alessandro Baricco As highlighted in his essay "The Barbarians", talking about wine in general: "When you point to a marketing push, the product in question, it loses its" soul ". What's more, Marco De Bartoli, producer virtuoso, often misunderstood and out of the "politically correct" has reason to prof. Science confirms the need to affix the necessary changes to the specification for the Doc and setting alarm as the need to reduce the scope of Fortification (today really frantic, unacceptable from the standpoint of wine, and not only). The Consortium for the Protection of Marsala wine, did not spend much time rule, merely a long press release information only and found that (by him) there was nothing to be clarified. Based on this controversy very interesting, I wanted to see for themselves what is recorded. This first test, of course, I decided to make the company more representative of the consortium of protection: The Florio. I've got, then, a good bottle of Marsala Vergine produced by this house, Terre Arse, and I have concentrated on its taste (the one I found is the vintage 1999, 15 € for 500 ml of wine in wine! A robbery, saw the following). The company, on its website, on this wine ensures that "... It originates from the combination of three elements: highly selected grapes Grillo high sugar content ... good wine distillate and at least 8 years of aging in small oak barrels, excellent. " Okay. Untap the tiny half-liter bottle to the cup and ISO the right amount to taste. As to the nose already perceived, not without some discomfort, "load" alcoholic. Uhm! Not a good sign, I think. The eye is clear, even crystal clear, with his yellow amber and its beautiful golden highlights. The "tears" thick and many show a great consistency. The molecules of the volatile component of alcohol, that strongly confirms the nose already staggering alcohol content Wine, dragging with him timid and irregular notes of oxidized and cooked wine. Insisting and playing with his nose, after a while ', you feel, at times, slight but distinct descriptors of burning honey and carob. The mouth is definitely dry (with a remote and curious bit of sweet, definitely "encouraged" dall'alcoolicità wine) and very hot, almost alcohol content spirits, I would say, with a mild softness that seems to hug you with the same energy with which, a few moments later, you inevitably spring. The impression is that there is too much alcohol, or "just" alcohol, which covers what you'd like to hear. Rather disappointing, then, is the attack that the final with virtually no confirmation of the warning, but fleeting, your nose. Aromatic finish the final almost non-existent: after a few seconds, you find yourself with a dry mouth, as if I had not tasted anything. Curious note in an empty glass after about 15 minutes, then free from incursions alcoholic, you will hear, though not durable, clean and pleasing aromas of caramel, dates and figs. This seems to confirm the theory: excessive alcohol (added) is the central defect of this wine. Then I read on the web comforting news, a press release from the Regional Institute for Vine and Wine, whose president, Leonard Agueci, said: "On Marsala more research, more protection and more communication. We want to rewrite the identity card of the Marsala to revive the culture and image in Italy and abroad. A wine of history, international soul, to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the unification of the country. " What a strange coincidence, I thought. The controversies and opinions, sometimes they are constructive. For now it is only a sketch, and I'd like to see the full picture, but unrepentant optimist, I see a little 'light at the bottom of the tunnel ...
Caramel Corona
Sommelier AIS
Cantine Florio - Via Vincenzo Florio, 1 - Marsala (TP). Tel 0923 781111 - fax 0923 982380. Bottles produced 3,500,000 - info@cantineflorio.it - Www.cantineflorio.it.
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